The Craft of Cassels : Cassels Brewery, Christchurch

In Christchurch’s Woolston district, the smell of malt and hops drifts through Cassels Brewery, where brains meet brews under the guidance of Executive Brewer Simon Bretherton. With more than three decades in brewing, Simon brings both global experience and a sharp focus on quality to one of New Zealand’s most recognisable craft breweries.

Simon’s brewing story began more than 30 years ago at Boddingtons Brewery in his hometown of Manchester. After mastering the basics there, he set off for New Zealand to explore new opportunities, then spent fi ve and a half years in Australian breweries honing his craft. Now back in New Zealand, Simon has found his place with the Cassels Brewery family.

Cassels Brewery began in a small bar at the other end of The Tannery, Woolston’s hub for shopping and entertainment. Founded by Alasdair Cassels with his son Zak and son-in-law Joe Shanks, a modest start some 15 years ago, has since grown into a large-scale operation producing lagers, ales and their now-famous milk stout, sending cans and kegs to supermarkets, liquor stores, and bars across New Zealand.

For Simon, quality begins with ingredients. “You can’t make a good beer without good ingredients, and hops are a fairly critical part of that. We only use water, malt, hops, and yeast - so everything has to be right. The hops we use tend to be aromatic, giving us those really clean, bold flavours that we’re looking for in our beers.”

New Zealand’s hop industry has built a reputation far beyond its borders.

“Kiwi hops are definitely sought after. They tend to be bold, distinct, and unique. Even the same hop variety, once it’s grown here, can express its own variation. It must be our climate, our terroir - it just lends itself to producing those amazing characteristics.”

That quality has been central to some of Cassels’ flagship beers. “Our milk stout is unusual in that it’s our most popular beer, which isn’t the case for most breweries. It’s been awarded the title “best in the world” at the World Beer Awards four times. That really got us noticed,” Simon explained. Alongside the milk stout sits their Nectaron IPA, a hoppy beer that proudly showcases hops grown in North Canterbury. The only hop farm in Canterbury, Okuora Farms produces Bold River Hops, which supply to Cassels Brewery

The relationship with John Penno and Maury Leyland Penno’s Bold River Hops by Okuora Farms began with a fresh hop brew - a once-a-year opportunity when hops go straight from bine to kettle without being dried. “We first used John’s hops in a fresh hop brew about two and a half years ago, using his Nectaron hops. We were blown away - the results were really awesome. Since then, we’ve contracted to purchase more conventional hops from him as well.”

Working with Okuora Farms has highlighted thesubtle ways terroir can shape flavour. “The Nectaron we got from Bold River Hops was just so bright, with real tropical and pineapple notes. It’s still recognisable as Nectaron, but there are slight differences compared to Motueka. Some of those notes just stand out a little brighter. It’s similar to wine grapes - you grow them in a different part of the world, and they express differently.”

Cassels now sources several varieties from Okuora Farms, including Pacifica, which is used in their lager beer. Simon said the hops coming out of North Canterbury consistently look “sensational on the bines” and play an important role in their brewing schedule. “It’s been an awesome discovery for us. John and his team do an amazing job, and we’re looking forward to continuing that relationship.”

While hops provide the fl avour, consistency is what builds trust. For Simon, the secret lies in people. “We can put the best processes in place, invest in good equipment, have the right philosophies - but if we don’t have people who are passionate about making it work, it won’t work. We’re really proud of our brewing team here at Cassels. Day in, day out, they make sure the quality is there.”

The focus on quality means ensuring the best ingredients and processes. That focus is more important than ever as the beer market shifts. “Over the last two or three decades, overall volume has shrunk across the world, but premium beers have increased. Craft beer sits within that premium segment, and in the last 15 to 20 years the changes have been huge. There’s more choice, brewers are more adventurous, and quality has lifted right across the board. Unfortunately, however, the economic conditions of the last few years have put a lot of pressure on many breweries, and the market as well. People need to make the dollar go a bit further. I think the standout brewers now will be those that focus on keeping costs under control and, more importantly, maintaining high quality,” he explained.

“The customer needs to be able to trust that when they purchase a beer, it will be what they expected. People are looking for both value and quality. Breweries that can deliver both will be the ones that stand out.”

Sustainability, too, plays a part - . “We aim to prioritise sustainability practises where possible, for us it’s about trying to do the right thing.” That includes partnering with local hop growers like Bold River Hops by Okuora Farms, who prioritise ecological farming methods to minimise chemical use and support biodiversity.

As for the message to hop growers around the country, Simon is clear. “Keep doing the awesome job you’re doing. We’re really fortunate in New Zealand to have such fantastic conditions for growing hops. Okuora Farms is a great example of that.”

Looking ahead, Simon sees steady growth built on the same principles that have carried Cassels from a small bar brewery to an award-winning producer. “Our long-term goal is to keep doing what we’re doing: brewing consistently high-quality beer, keeping beer drinkers happy, and hopefully making more of them along the way, and doing what we can to get the best out of our hops. That’s really what it’s all about.”